ApprenticeMedium risk

Motor won't start and makes no sound at all

Press start and nothing happens — no hum, no movement, no attempt to turn. The motor is completely dead rather than struggling.

Safety first

A 'dead' motor circuit can still have live terminals. The motor may also start the moment a missing condition is restored. Prove dead before working at the terminals.

Isolate, lock out / tag out, and prove dead before working unless a live test is specifically required, authorised, and carried out under proper supervision. Always follow local regulations, your site procedures, and the equipment manufacturer's documentation.

Full detail — causes, the why, and common mistakes.

Likely causes

Ranked from most to least likely.

  1. 1

    No supply reaching the motor (upstream open)

    Most likely

    A tripped breaker, open isolator, blown fuses, or a contactor not closing means no power reaches the motor at all.

  2. 2

    Control circuit not completing

    #2

    The start command never energises the contactor — faulty start button, e-stop, overload contact, or control supply.

  3. 3

    All-phase loss vs single-phasing

    #3

    Total silence usually means all phases are gone (not single-phasing, which normally hums) — points upstream.

  4. 4

    Open motor connection / broken supply cable

    Least likely

    A broken cable or disconnected terminal between the starter and motor removes power entirely.

Reports are saved on this device to reflect what you actually find.

Testing sequence

Work through one test at a time. Expected reading and what each result means.

Test 1 of 3
1

Press start and check whether the main contactor energises (clunk / coil voltage).

Expected reading

Contactor pulls in on the start command.

If it passes

Contactor closes — check for supply through it to the motor.

If it fails

Contactor doesn't close — the fault is in the control circuit.

View all expected readings at once
1. Press start and check whether the main contactor energises (clunk / coil voltage).
Contactor pulls in on the start command.
2. If the contactor closes, measure for supply on its load side and at the motor terminals.
Full supply present through the contactor to the motor.
3. If the contactor doesn't close, trace the control circuit: start button, e-stop, overload contact, control supply.
A complete control path that energises the coil on start.

Fault-finding flowchart

The same logic as a decision tree.

  1. 1
    start

    Motor dead, no sound

    → step 2
  2. 2
    decision

    Does the main contactor energise on start?

    Yes→ step 3No→ step 4
  3. 3
    decision

    Is supply present through to the motor terminals?

    Yes→ step 5No→ step 6
  4. 4
    decision

    Is the control path (button/e-stop/overload) complete?

    Yes→ step 7No→ step 8
  5. 5
    result

    Power reaches a dead motor — inspect the motor/connection.

  6. 6
    result

    Check fuses, isolator, and the contactor main contacts.

  7. 7
    result

    Path complete, coil won't pull in — see contactor coil fault-finding.

  8. 8
    result

    Open in control path — e-stop, overload, or button. Repair it.

Common mistakes apprentices make

  • Assuming the motor is burnt out when it's simply getting no supply.
  • Skipping the control circuit and focusing only on the power side.
  • Not noticing an e-stop or overload contact is open.
  • Forgetting that total silence usually means all phases gone, not single-phasing.

When to stop & escalate

If supply is missing upstream (incoming or distribution), escalate to that level. If power reaches a dead motor, plan a motor inspection/insulation test before condemning it.

If you're past your competence, authorisation, or the safe limits of the job — stop and hand it on. There's no fault worth getting hurt over.

Related faults

Learn the theory

How the gear and circuits behind this fault actually work.