Cooktop element (radiant/coil) not working
One element/zone on an electric (radiant or coil) cooktop isn't heating while others work — pointing at that element, its switch/control, or connection.
Safety first
Isolate, prove dead, and let elements cool. Cooktops are usually on a dedicated high-current circuit.
Isolate, lock out / tag out, and prove dead before working unless a live test is specifically required, authorised, and carried out under proper supervision. Always follow local regulations, your site procedures, and the equipment manufacturer's documentation.
Full detail — causes, the why, and common mistakes.
Likely causes
Ranked from most to least likely.
- 1
Failed element/zone
Most likelyThat radiant element or coil has gone open circuit.
- 2
Faulty energy regulator / control switch
#2The control (energy regulator) for that zone has failed.
- 3
Loose/burnt connection at the element
#3A loose or burnt terminal at the element breaks the circuit.
- 4
Control board fault (touch/ceramic types)
Least likelyOn electronic cooktops the control board for that zone has failed.
Reports are saved on this device to reflect what you actually find.
Testing sequence
Work through one test at a time. Expected reading and what each result means.
Confirm only one zone is affected and the others work (rules out the whole appliance/supply).
One zone dead, others fine.
Single-zone fault — isolate and test that element/control.
If all zones dead, treat as supply/whole-appliance fault.
View all expected readings at once
Fault-finding flowchart
The same logic as a decision tree.
- 1start
Cooktop zone dead
→ step 2 - 2decision
Is only one zone affected (others work)?
Yes→ step 3No→ step 4 - 3decision
Are the control and connections for that zone sound?
Yes→ step 5No→ step 6 - 4result
All zones dead — treat as supply/whole-appliance fault.
- 5result
Replace the failed element.
- 6result
Faulty control or burnt connection — rectify/replace.
Common mistakes apprentices make
- Assuming the whole cooktop when one zone is dead.
- Not checking the zone's control as well as the element.
- Overlooking a burnt connection at the element.
- Working before the element has cooled.
When to stop & escalate
Cooktop repair is licensed/qualified appliance work, often with manufacturer parts (especially touch-control ceramic/induction boards).
If you're past your competence, authorisation, or the safe limits of the job — stop and hand it on. There's no fault worth getting hurt over.
Related faults
Induction cooktop showing a fault or not heating
An induction cooktop won't heat, shows an error code, or doesn't recognise pans — different from a radiant element fault because it's electronic and pan-dependent.
Electric oven not heating
The oven powers up (light/clock may work) but doesn't get hot — pointing at the element, thermostat, or the oven's controls rather than the supply.
Oven trips the power when switched on or heating
Turning the oven on (or selecting heat/grill) trips the safety switch or breaker — usually an element that's failed to earth.